No, you really don't know wine like you think
Monday, July 27, 2009
So, I am out with my goomba Chef Al last night, and on
our final spot of the night --Bridget Foy's on South Street
in Philadelphia; we came for the Sea Dog Blue Paw Wheat
Ale-- when I happened across two people who I worked with
years ago in an ad agency.
As we were catching up on
what everyone is doing, one of them opined about being
involved when I do some tastings and having a focus group.
Of course, this was a ludicrous idea, as I review wine at
any point in the day, and can even do it in my undies.
Also, I rarely share my wine with others when I am reviewing
it. As it turns out, thus person owns a market research
firm (you've gotta love them, as they're always trying to
position themselves to make money, and be of
"use").
However, I jokingly raised the question and
statement of "you don't know anything about wine." Well,
the reply was such that being that they had traveled to so
many countries and drank wine, that it someone made them
erudite on wine. Additionally, they harbored that false
pretense that French wine is the best, and having been there
and consuming it makes one more knowledgeable about wine.
For those that know me, you know I was going to rip into
this and shred it like a pack of hyenas on a water
buffalo!
I then asked them to name the "best-est" wine
that they have ever had, or a French wine that was over the
top. And I can say, the right answer would not be anything
that was an overpriced red pre 1970 unless it would have
been something like a fortified wine, a meritage or a very
good Italian red… and it also couldn't be named without
naming the exact producer.
Well, after two minutes, an
answer came out (any person that really is into wine
would've probably thrown out at least five wines by then
until truly determining their best choice). But the answer
wasn't an answer, but an experience of drinking something
which they couldn't remember, not even the type of wine, but
remembered what they ate with it, and to a degree where they
were. And even in the latter, they were wrong (Al said that
he knew the place she was talking about, and it's outside of
Rome).
But that brings me to an interesting concept, and
that is most people that have consumed wine really know
nothing about wine. If you throw out terms like maceration,
Malolactic fermentation, Charmat method, sur lees, etc.,
they really don't know anything. They can tell you that
they had a wine that Wine Spectator or Robert Parker raved
about, but couldn't tell you their own opinions about the
wine, instead just going on like lemmings, following
everything someone else said. Some of my paisans like
and/or love me because I have had some Italian wines that
are outside of the typical Chianti, Brunello, and Barolo.
Some of my Irish peeps love me because I don't parrot that
Guiness is all that; it aint. And even Chef George Perrier
likes me because we probably share the same attribute of
scoffing anyone, and standing ground on our opinions,
without giving someone credit that someone else attributed
to them.
Wine is more than the standard varietals that
[most] people in America know (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc,
Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot,
Syrah/Shiraz, Riesling, Muscat). Do you even know which
grape goes in Chianti, Bordeaux or Burgundy? Trying five
wines from Chile, Argentina and Australia doesn't give you
the right to say that you really loves wines from those
places, especially when you got the mass produced crap that
no one even purchases there.
And just because someone has
the title of sommelier, it means nothing. They have
completed a number of courses, but unlike being a mechanic
or a doctor, there is nothing in their title that states
that they learn and no more after receiving it.
Wine is a
large world, larger than most people even realize.
Somewhere in some foreign land, there is someone making the
most opulent wine that you could ever have, but he only
makes it for family and friend. And in that same land,
there is someone with a great marketing budget and an even
greater spin doctor who convinces you to buy his schlock and
you treat it like its ambrosia. For me, and Al too, we tend
to meet that little old guy and get some of his special
stuff.
As Public Enemy once rapped, "don't believe the
hype." Don't confuse wine knowledge with florid speech and
praise. If you do, I have a bridge to sell you. No, I am
serious on the bridge thing.
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