Oaked versus Unoaked (or Naked)
Monday, December 21, 2009
There's been a war brewing within the wine industry for
the past decade, if not longer, and that's on the issue of
oaked wines, with more focus on white wines than red
wines.
Oaked
The use of oak has been a
standard in winemaking for centuries, with wine being either
fermented in oak barrels or age in them. Robert Mondavi did
much to teach American winemakers about the use of oak
during the 60s and 70s. Oak, whether American or French,
has been the mainstay for the construction of much wine
barrels, and even when wine hasn't been fermented and aged
in oak barrels, there has been the use of oak chips and
staves to impart the ‘beauty' of oak.
If you noticed,
I used quotes when talking about the beauty of oak, because
it's not that it's a bad thing, but many people do go too
damned far with it. Not all of us like a Chardonnay that is
very buttery, nor do many of us like a wine that has too
much spice in it; another characteristic of oak.
Oak,
and any wood for that matter, can affect the color, texture,
tannin level, aroma and ultimately the taste of wine. Oak,
in moderation, can bring about some very masterful results
in wine, but done too much, and it can turn off some
palates, including my own.
With oak barrels, it
imparts character to the wine, while allowing just a little
bit of oxygen to enter, affecting the taste. Note that this
is not enough oxygen to turn the wine bad, but enough to
speed up the aging process. You usually can tell a white
wine that has had thorough [as well as extended] time in oak
due to a stronger brown-yellow color. Also, depending upon
their level of 'toastyness,' the barrels can also impart
that to the wine as well. French and American oaks are the
most used, but others use Slovenian and Russian
oak.
In many cases, the oak will impart flavors which
overpower that of the wine itself, so that you don't taste
the fruits, but the wood.
Unoaked
"I want
my fruit!"
This could be said for most of the folks
that love a fruit forward wine, whether the fruit is exotic,
citrus, or everyday (apple, peach, plum, strawberry; you get
the idea). Unoaked wines give you a cleaner, lighter, and
crisper taste. There is nothing like having a great and
robust Pinot Grigio/Gris, a clean Chardonnay or a
mouth-watering Sauvignon Blanc; a slamming Viognier isn't
bad either.
Unoaked wines are usually fermented and
aged in stainless steel tanks or lined concrete vats, though
sometimes they might be briefly put into oak barrels. With
this technique, none of the wine's true flavor is affected
by wood.
Conclusion
Ultimately, there
really is no conclusion over which is better; it all depends
on the palate of the drinker. Most of the chardonnays that
I have ever consumed use oak in the process; I am quite sure
that Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay and Beringer
Napa Valley Chardonnay use it. However, the Lapis Luna
Chardonnay that I am loving right now. I would say that you
should try both and make your own decision.
Next up –
sulfites!
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